Winter Climbing
First weekend of the winter climbing season….
Just back from a lightning raid on the Northern Corries in the Cairngorms last Friday. After an overnight drive to the get to the ski centre car park at 2 a.m Yash and I squeezed in a few hours sleep before heading off to the hills. Conditions were great (although relatively little ice) on the Friday, no snow fall, sub-zero temperatures, stable snow pack and relatively cloud free. The faff factor was high though, and we finished our first route (Doctor’s Choice IV,4) in the dark, both of us having taken a small fall – Yash pinging off whilst seconding, mine on the lead, but heading off route and after ripping an axe. Back to the van for an overnight under what started out as a clear sky, but must have clouded over later as we woke to about 3-4 inches of fresh snow and a moderate breeze.
Undaunted we headed back off into Coire an t’Sneachda, and seizing our chance ran up the classic Runnel (II) before anyone else could get to it. Lots of spindrift from below and above made it a little less pleasant than the day before and more like ‘proper’ winter climbing. The neve was solid though, and the climbing was easy, but it was a real fight to get protection as all the cracks had iced up, leading to some impressive run outs. We managed to get back in the light though, coming down into Coire Cais, and having a well deserved hot chocolate before jumping in the van and driving back home.
I ache today!
View back towards Aviemore from Coire an t'Sneachda
