BRMC Asia Tour
On the basis that I needed a holiday and it seemed like a good idea, I signed up for a 12 day climbing holiday to Krabi in Thailand last November. I was partly seduced by the beautiful pictures and the thought of climbing from the beach, as well as the thought that at least I’d get some good instruction in as well, given the fact that there was only 3 of us on the course, with one instructor.
I flew from Heathrow to Bangkok, a two hour wait and then an internal flight of about an hour down to Krabi. We were met at the airport by our ‘instructor’, the taxi driver and I met my other compatriots, Rose and Ed before the 20 minute drive to Ao Nang which is on the coast. From there, we transferred onto a boat for a trip around the coast to Tonsai. A lovely turquoise blue sea, temperature in the 90s and spectacular limestone sea cliffs seemed to bode well. Only slight problem was that the itinery was different to what we were told before we had set out, but never mind.
Tonsai is one of the original climbing destinations of Thailand and is set up that way, with cheap accommodation set amongst the trees and a sea front of bars and restaurants. Nowadays it’s also a destination for back-packers which gives it a fairly lively feel at night. Our accommodation was in relatively comfortable wooden cabins, although a lack of a/c meant that clothes etc never really dried out.
Next day was the first climbing day and we waited expectantly at breakfast for our instructor to come on the first boat from Ao Nang (he should have been staying with us, but didn’t). Eventually, after eating, we collected our gear and began the walk to Railay for the climbing to begin. To get to Railay from Tonsai one either takes the inland route or goes around the coast, depending on the state of the tide. The coast route has the added hazard of razor sharp black coral to negotiate and seemed to be our instructors preferred route. After 25 minutes or so we made it around to Railay, rather hot and sweaty already. Railay is much more upmarket, and with a better beach area.
Sun, Sea, Sand and Rock
Tonsai and Railay have a number of climbing schools catering mostly to the tourists. As such, they tend to hog the easier routes which makes it difficult at times to get onto them. Also, the easier routes are in short supply, resulting in the lower parts of the routes being pretty polished, not helpful if you’re not very accomplished. Also, climbing in Thailand is limited by the bolting on the routes. The limestone rock is porous and reacts with stainless steel to rot the bolt that is in the face. As such, only those routes that have been bolted with titanium bolts can be climbed, further limiting choice. Anyway, I managed a few routes of the easier Grade 5 routes on the first day and struggled up a 6a. My companions were slightly more accomplished, with Rose being able to lead 6a at a struggle, and Ed being able to lead up to 6b.
For the next three days we stayed around the Railay/Tonsai area with one ‘rest’ day. It became apparent that our instructor was a mate of the guy who was supposed to be guiding us. As such, he had no interest in staying in the area with us or really helping with technique etc. Our climbing time was limited by his need to get the boat back to his home, as well as his lack of knowledge of the climbing in the area and the fact that he didn’t have a guide book either. The other major limiting factor was the heat, even always climbing in the shade, it still was pretty hard work (one day I got through 6 litres of water). For me as well, I ran out of routes that I could do, so first route of the day was at the top of my grade, result was that I really struggled and got a bit dispirited with it at times.
After Railay/Tonsai, we transferred back to Ao Nang which was close to where our instructor lived. Ao Nang is one of the main tourist areas on the coast and could be described as an Asian Blackpool. We were there to go and climb inland on one of the faces that our instructor had developed. From this point onwards, our instructor decided that as Ed was the best climber he would put up routes for him and he effectively left me and Rose to our own devices. I was therefore dependent on Rose being able to put up the rope, which she managed to do on most occasions, but struggled at times. I didn’t really accomplish a lot here and being located in Ao Nang we had lost some of the ambience of the holiday.
After Ao Nang we took a 40 minute boat ride to the island of Koh Yao Noi. This was a bit more like authentic old Thailand. The accommodation was in new cabins with a special communal area set out with hammocks where various nationalities smoked the day away. Climbing involved taking a boat around to a staging area set at the bottom of the cliff where we were dropped off and the boat waited for us. Spectacular views out over the sea, and something definitely to be experienced. I managed a couple of 6a routes which indicated that I had picked up something on the holiday. Climbing on the last day was limited by a lack of titanium bolts, which was a bit disappointing.
Overall, I did enjoy the holiday and as my first trip to Thailand, it was certainly an experience. Managed to get three Thai massages in, as well as having my feet nibbled by fish (which is well recommended). Good, cheap food (as long as you like rice or noodles) and some spectacular scenery. I did slightly improve my climbing, but it could have been so much better. The travel company (Rock and Sun), have admitted this and I’ve got a free climbing holiday to Spain as compensation.
I also know the ropes of the area now. Whilst I wouldn’t immediately rush back (there are too many other places to go), it is easy and cheap to get around, with plenty of accommodation available. People are friendly and there is a lot of climbing that could be done. We were lucky with the weather as it didn’t rain much, the beginning of November is the start of the dry season but it can be much more variable. If going back, I would go late November/December or January, take my own gear, get a guide book and organise things myself. I’d need some competent climbers to accompany me though! Graham
(I’d have posted some pictures here, but along with Pete, can’t for the life of me figure out how to do it!)
